Ingredient Glossary

What is it?

• BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is a synthetic antioxidant.
• BHT is not the same as, nor is it similar to BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole), a different ingredient that has received some negative attention.

Why do we use it?

• We use BHT for two main purposes in our formulas. BHT helps to protect ingredients such as oils and natural extracts from oxidation that may be caused by reaction with oxygen in the air. This helps to ensure an optimal product experience and aesthetics. BHT can also be used to provide antioxidant benefits to skin. When used as an antioxidant BHT can neutralise free radicals.

Is it safe?

• BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is safe for use in cosmetic products. For example, the most recent EU assessment considers BHT to be safe up to 0.8% in leave on and rinse off products.
• We use BHT at no more than 0.1% in leave on products, and 0.5% in rinse off products in accordance with global regulatory standards. We are confident in the safety of this ingredient as used in our formulas.

Can we use an alternative?

• Available alternatives to BHT are not as effective nor as compatible with many ingredients and formulas.
• We are confident in the safety and efficacy of BHT.

References

• AICIS: BHT Human Health Tier II Assessment
• ECHA: REACH Dossier for BHT
• ECHA: Results of the Evaluation of PBT/vPvB properties of BHT

Learn more about our approach to sourcing shea butter responsibly.

What is it?

• Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane) is a name for a group of synthetic silicone-based polymers. They are used for their moisturising and skin protectant properties. Dimethicone comes in a wide variety of textures from highly fluid to gum-like.

Why do we use it?

• Dimethicone is often used as an emollient to provide unique benefits and textures for skin and hair such as:
  • Silky look and feel
  • Detangle and conditioning
  • Texture enhancing for luxurious feel
  • Film forming ability
  • Thermal protection
• Dimethicone is also used to prevent soaping in face and body creams, a phenomenon that occurs when creams or lotions are difficult to rub in resulting in white streaking on the skin's surface.

Is it safe?

• Dimethicone has a long history of safe use as a cosmetic ingredient. It is recognised as an active ingredient in OTC skin protectant products. Due to the inert nature, it is even used in baby products and eczema products, such as rash cream.

Can we use an alternative?

• Due to its unique properties and benefits, it's not easily replaceable.
• We continue to consult the latest scientific and regulatory updates globally.

References

• FDA: CFR (OTC Skin Protectant)

(Also found on labels as: Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium EDTA-Copper and Tetrasodium EDTA)

What is it?

• EDTA helps stabilise formulas. It is a synthetic chelator, meaning it attracts and binds with minerals in water, preventing the minerals from reacting with other ingredients in the formula. Here is what you may find on your label: Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium EDTA-Copper and Tetrasodium EDTA.
• As a result of its binding activity, the EU Chemical Agency has investigated EDTA’s potential environmental impacts on soil, found very low levels of EDTA in the environment, and concluded that concern is not warranted.

Why do we use it?

• We use EDTA at low levels to maintain product integrity, keeping the product stable and pleasant for consumers to use. EDTA does this by gathering minerals that are present in water and binds them, to prevent them from interacting with other ingredients that could affect the stability and appearance of cosmetic formulas. EDTA is also used to improve the performance of rinse off products in hard water.

Is it safe?

• EDTA has a long history of safe use in cosmetics.

Can we use an alternative?

• Available alternatives are not as effective nor as compatible with many ingredients and formulas.

References

• Canada: EDTA and its Salts Information Sheet
• ECHA: EDTA Risk Assessment, 2004

What is it?

• Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/Methylisothioazolinone (MI/MIT) mix (also known under the trade name Kathon) is a very effective synthetic preservative. It can be used to preserve a cosmetic formula or a raw material.

Read more about preservatives.

Why do we use it?

• MCI/MI/MIT is a highly effective preservative when used at a very low concentration.

Is it safe?

• In some countries, its use is restricted because it has the potential to cause allergic reactions. However, it is permitted and considered safe at very low levels in rinse off products.

References

• CIR: Safety Assessment of Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchlorothiazolinone, 2019
• ECHA: Cosmetic Products Regulation, Annex V – Allowed Preservatives
• SCCS Opinion, 2009

Learn more about our approach to sourcing mica responsibly.

What is it? 

• Mineral oil is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturising properties and ability to help reduce water loss in skin.

Why do we use it?

• Mineral oil lends an excellent cushion and emolliency to certain types of formulas that cannot be duplicated by other materials.

Is it safe?

• Mineral oil has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognised by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.

Can we use an alternative? 

• Mineral oil lends a unique cushion and emolliency to certain formulas without a characteristic odour of some natural alternatives. We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.

References 

• Cosmetics Europe: Recommendation No. 14, MHC in Lip Care Products
• FDA: CFR (Mineral Oil Skin Protectant)

What is it? 

• Paraffin is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturising properties.
• Paraffin may also be used as a candle wax since it is known for its ability to hold high concentrations of fragrance and colours. Paraffin melts easily and therefore is very effective at filling rooms with fragrance.

Why do we use it?

• In cosmetics: Paraffin is unique in its ability to stabilise certain emulsions and wax-based anhydrous (no water) formulas. Additionally it is a skin conditioning agent and helps reduce water loss in skin.
• In candles: In our experience, paraffin gives the best 'throw' of available candle waxes, effectively filling the room with fragrance.

Is it safe?

• Paraffin has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognised by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.
• When used as a wax in a well-constructed fragranced candle, paraffin produces a safe, clean and even burning flame. Additionally, all paraffin candles marketed by ELC's brands are tested as part of a comprehensive test plan and meet all applicable candle regulations, safety and industry standards for markets in which they are sold.

Can we use an alternative?

• We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.
• Paraffin has a number of performance benefits compared to alternatives, including:
  • It melts efficiently and evenly for a good candle experience
  • It stays consistent when other waxes can expand and collapse during shipment in different climates

References

• AICIS: Paraffin Human Health Tier II Assessment

What is it? 

• Petrolatum is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturising properties and ability to help reduce water loss in skin.

Why do we use it?

• Petrolatum lends an excellent cushion and emolliency to certain types of formulas that cannot be duplicated by other materials.

Is it safe?

• Petrolatum has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognised by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.

Can we use an alternative? 

• Petrolatum lends a unique cushion and emolliency to certain formulas without a characteristic odour of some natural alternatives. We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.

References 

• AICIS: Petrolatum Human Health Tier II Assessment
• FDA: CFR (Food Additive)
• FDA: CFR (OTC Skin Protectant)

What is it?

• Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative.

Why do we use it?

• Phenoxyethanol is a broad spectrum preservative that is efficacious at low levels against a wide variety of microorganisms. It is compatible with most formula types.

Is it safe?

• Phenoxyethanol has a long history as a safe and effective preservative in cosmetics. We formulate with phenoxyethanol levels up to 1% in accordance with global regulatory standards. We use the lowest effective level of phenoxyethanol that allows us to maintain the integrity of the product, which is often below 1% in our formulas. We are confident in the safety of phenoxyethanol and support its use on a global basis.

Can we use an alternative?

• Although there are a limited number of available alternative preservatives for use in cosmetics, these are not as effective or as compatible with many ingredients and formulas. Furthermore, phenoxyethanol is effective at a low level, has a long history of safety, and is appropriate for mild formulations.

References

• ECHA: Opinion on the application for approval of the active substance: 2-Phenoxyethanol, 2018
• SCCS: Opinion on Phenoxyethanol, 2016

What is this?

• Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are synthetic compounds used as humectants (which help retain or preserve moisture), emulsifiers, thickeners, solvents and softeners in many cosmetic products. Polyethylene glycols allows us to mix ingredients that are normally hard to combine in formula such as water and oils. There are many PEG-based materials that are used to allow us to achieve a large variety of textures. Polyethylene glycols are typically identified on an ingredient label by the designation PEG or ingredients ending in '-eth', for example ceteareth.

Is it safe? 

• The PEGs used in cosmetics are safe. While the manufacturing process of PEGs can create a byproduct, 1,4 dioxane, our processes and our ingredient specifications ensure the PEGs we use contain very low levels (within regulatory limits) of this byproduct.

Why do we use it and how?

• PEGs are used to create unique textures and feels. They contribute to product stability, consistency and aesthetic experience. PEGs are used to combine ingredients that don’t otherwise blend or stay together, allowing formulas to remain intact that would otherwise separate.

Can we use an alternative?

• In some cases, there are naturally derived ingredients that can be used as alternatives. However, these alternatives are not always as effective at emulsifying and when used at higher levels may impact texture and feel.

References 

• CIR: Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils, 2013
• EFSA: Refined exposure assessment of polyethylene glycol from its use as a food additive, 2018

What are they?

• Polymers are everywhere. There are millions of different types of polymers ranging from DNA to polyethylene plastic bags. A polymer is a substance that has a molecular structure consisting chiefly or entirely of a large number of similar units bonded together. For example, wood contains cellulose, a polymer made up of repetitive sugar units.
• It is impossible to determine from the name of a polymer whether it is natural, synthetic, liquid, solid, soft, hard, etc.

Why do we use them?

• Polymers can be used to make your skin or hair feel smoother, softer, and/or look more luminous.
• Polymers in liquid/waxy form are used to provide structure, feel and smoothness to a formula. Solid polymers have many uses including in powder makeup, as a coating on mineral pigments, or to encapsulate active ingredients (e.g., perfumes, UV filters, etc.).

Are they safe?

• Polymers are safe and have a long history of safe use in cosmetics. Due to their size, they tend to interact with only the surface of your skin or hair.
• Some polymers can be persistent in the environment. However, persistence does not always equal harm to the environment.
• We assess ingredients, including polymers, for their potential environmental impact at the concentration used and strive to make the best selections.

Can we use an alternative?

• Polymers are safe and have a long history of safe use in cosmetics and are very effective in delivering benefits.

References

• Due to the size and variety of ingredients in this class, references will be provided for specific ingredients.

What are they?

• Preservatives are a class of ingredients used to help prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms in the product.

Why do we use them?

• We use preservatives to protect product integrity over time and during use by the consumer. Everyday activities, like putting your fingers into a jar, can introduce bacteria or microorganisms into the product. Preservatives contribute to the safety of the product by helping to prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms that can cause irritation or infections.

Read more about preservatives.

Are they safe?

• We use preservatives in a safe and responsible manner. The preservatives we use have a long history of safe use in cosmetics, and like all of our ingredients they undergo extensive safety evaluation. We only use preservatives when and at the levels they are needed to effectively preserve the product.

Can we use an alternative?

• We believe products that are effectively preserved are more appropriate and practical for consumer use. For example, a product that is not preserved might have to be stored in your refrigerator like fresh food or would only last for a few weeks. Some products, such as fragrances which contain a high level of alcohol, by their nature do not require preservatives since they don’t support the growth of microorganisms.

References

• European Commission on preservatives

What is it?

• Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, which has multifunctional properties. It is an exfoliant that can be either naturally derived or synthetically created. Naturally derived salicylic acid is extracted from Salix (willow) tree bark. It can be an over-the-counter (OTC) active used for acne/blemishes. It is an approved preservative in the EU.

Why do we use it?

• It is an exfoliant ingredient which helps skin to shed dead cells from the top layer and improve the overall appearance of skin. Salicylic acid is used in some OTC products for acne/blemishes.

Is it safe?

• It is a safe and well-studied ingredient that has been used in skin care for more than 100 years.
• The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers salicylic acid safe for cosmetic use.

Can we use an alternative?

• There are other exfoliants available, but we choose to use salicylic acid in some formulas based on the benefit needed. We are confident in our choice because of its excellent safety and efficacy.

References

• CIR: Amended Safety Assessment of Salicylic Acid and Salicylates, 2019
• FDA on Beta Hydroxy Acids
• SCCS: Opinion on Salicylic Acid, 2019

What are they?

• Silicones are synthetic ingredients that are created in part from the element silicon. Silicone is sourced from the compound silicon dioxide which is found in sand, quartz and other rocks.
• Silicones used in cosmetics are typically colourless, odourless and have a variety of textures and unique properties. The most commonly used silicones in personal care products are dimethicone, dimethiconol and phenyl trimethicone, but they are just a subset of a very large and diverse class of materials.

Why do we use them?

• Silicones have a wide variety of uses, everything from soaping prevention (a phenomenon that occurs when creams or lotions are difficult to rub in resulting in white streaking on the skin’s surface) to creating unique aesthetics. Silicones provide benefits such as:
  • Smoothing and blurring (or soft focus)
  • Spreadablility
  • Silky look and feel of hair and skin
  • Shine (or radiant, dewy look)
  • Transfer resistance (long-wear)
  • Preventing physical sunscreens from leaving a white cast on your skin

Are they safe?

• Silicones have a long history of safe use in beauty and personal care products.
• All of the silicones we use have been rigorously evaluated and are safe to use in cosmetic and personal care products.

Can we use an alternative?

• Due to their unique properties and benefits, they are not easily replaceable.
• We continue to consult the latest scientific and regulatory updates globally.

References

• Due to the variety of ingredients in this class, references will be provided for specific ingredients. 

What are they?

• Consumers ask about sulphates, but they are often referring to sulphate cleansers, such as SLS, SLES, ALS and SCS. Sulphate cleansers are a class of ingredients used to remove excess dirt and oil from skin and hair. They can be used in other cleansing products, even toothpaste.

Why do we use them?

• We use sulphate cleansers in shampoos, body washes and facial cleansers due to how well they cleanse and generate rich, voluminous foam, which consumers enjoy.

Are they safe?

• While sulphates are excellent cleansers, some consumers are concerned that they may be drying or irritating. When we formulate with sulphates, we are diligent to ensure that the finished product is mild to skin and scalp. We achieve this by combining other ingredients with sulphate cleansers to create a safe, mild product.
• We only formulate with sulphate cleansers in rinse off products, which also minimises the potential for irritation.

Can we use an alternative?

• There are other cleansers available, but they don’t provide the same lather or clean feel. Some consumers prefer the feel and experience of sulphate cleansers; therefore, we provide both options.

References

• FDA: CFR (Food Additive)
• Bondi, Cara AM et al. “Human and Environmental Toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS): Evidence for Safe Use in Household Cleaning Products.” Environmental Health Insights, vol. 9 27-32. 17 Nov. 2015, doi:10.4137/EHI.S3176